color
Light brown, dark brown, grey-blue, and reddish-brown may have different treatment goals.
PREMIUM PIGMENTATION GUIDE
Melasma, freckles, solar lentigines and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation require different treatment considerations. This guide explains clues for distinguishing pigmentation, how options such as laser toning, picosecond lasers and IPL are selected, and what to consider during recovery. Individual treatment plans and recovery vary.
01: · PIGMENT MAP
The first step in pigmentation treatment is not choosing a laser, but distinguishing the type of lesion. First, check whether it is large and dull brown, small and has clear boundaries, occurs at the site of inflammation, appears gray-blue and deep, and whether the surface is rough or has recently changed.
| category | What the patient usually feels | Clues checked during treatment | Basic treatment principles |
|---|---|---|---|
| Melasma | Broad, irregular brown color on both cheekbones, forehead, and upper lip | Left and right symmetry, relationship with season, heat, hormones, and ultraviolet rays, accompanied by flushing | Photoprotection and prescription treatment are basic, and laser and light treatment are optional and combined. |
| freckles | Small spots that are visible from childhood or become darker after sunlight | Small, numerous, and with relatively clear boundaries | Consider targeted pigment laser or IPL and continue photoprotection to prevent new lesions |
| solar lentigo | Relatively large brown spots that appear on sun-exposed areas | The boundaries are clear and often remain regardless of the season. | Check whether it is benign first and then select local laser, IPL, or other removal methods. |
| Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) | Acne, eczema, brown marks on wounds or procedure sites | Consistent with the location of previous inflammation/irritation | Reduce the cause of inflammation and irritation first, prioritize prescriptions and photoprotection, and apply equipment selectively. |
| dermal pigment | Gray, bluish-gray, or brown spots on cheekbones and temples | The color appears deep and may appear on both sides in adulthood. | After diagnosis, the wavelength appropriate for the depth is selected, and multiple observations and long-term follow-up may be required. |
| Raised/keratinous lesions | Brown lesions that are thick or rough and sticky when touched | Surface, thickness, keratin, growth pattern | A flat pigment laser and other removal methods may be needed, so diagnosis is required first. |
| changing lesions | Asymmetry, irregular border, multiple colors, growth, bleeding, itchiness | Appearance different from other lesions, changes over time | Before cosmetic laser, dermatological examination, dermoscopy, and biopsy if necessary |
Light brown, dark brown, grey-blue, and reddish-brown may have different treatment goals.
Check whether it is cloudy and wide or a clear spot.
Estimate whether it is epidermal-centered or dermal pigment mixed.
Check whether it is symmetrical, whether it is an area exposed to sunlight, or whether there is inflammation.
Check whether it is completely flat, rough or chunky.
Check to see if they are new, enlarged, have changed color, or have worsened since a previous procedure.
02: · MELASMA
Melasma is not just a problem of melanin, but is a chronic and recurrent pigment disease that involves ultraviolet rays, visible light, heat, hormones, inflammation, blood vessels, and the photoaged dermal environment. PIH or rebound worsening may occur after strong energy, so it is controlled over a long period of time based on skin reaction.
Use plenty of broad-spectrum sunscreen and reapply during outdoor activities. At melasma, you can review tinted products containing iron oxide to suit your skin tone.
Topical tranexamic acid, hydroquinone, retinoid, azelaic acid, and combination prescriptions are taken into consideration skin condition, pregnancy/nursing status, and potential for irritation. The suitability of oral tranexamic acid is determined after checking the risk of blood clots and medical history.
Dermatitis, excessive exfoliation and friction are reduced, and if redness is present, pigment and vascular reactions are also assessed.
Fractional devices such as laser toning, picosecond, IPL, thulium/erbium glass/needle radiofrequency are used to assist with skin tone, depth, and previous reactions. No device can eliminate the possibility of recurrence.
03: · FRECKLES & LENTIGINES
Freckles and solar lentigo are usually superficial spots with relatively clear boundaries and can be considered for topical targeted treatment. However, if melasmas are spread together or have an irregular shape, we do not treat them all with the same energy and first check whether they are benign lesions.
Targeted spots may temporarily darken and develop microscabs following treatment. Do not force it off, but keep moisturizing and blocking UV rays. Even if the existing spots have faded, new lesions may form if exposure to UV rays continues.
04: · POST-INFLAMMATORY HYPERPIGMENTATION
PIH is a condition in which melanin remains after inflammation from acne, eczema, wounds, burns, friction or procedures has subsided. The first step is to reduce new inflammation and recurrent irritation, and laser is an adjunctive treatment of choice in stable pigments.
Vascular changes may be central. First distinguish between active inflammation and vascular response.
Melanin is likely central. If the two changes come together, the blood vessels and pigments can be divided into plans.
People with darker skin may have PIH for longer and have a higher risk of pigmentation occurring again after the procedure. In this type, treatment that does not create new inflammation is more important than ‘getting rid of it quickly’.
05: · DERMAL PIGMENT
Grayish-blue or brownish-gray spots that appear bilaterally on the cheekbones and temples may be dermal pigments such as acquired bilateral nevus of Ota (ABNOM). Because the appearance may overlap with melasma or solar lentigo, you should not self-diagnose or repeat the same toning just by looking at photos.
Dermal pigmentation may require multiple treatments and ample intervals. Q-Switch Nd:YAG or picosecond lasers can be selected based on depth and skin tone, but are evaluated step by step, taking into account the possibility of swelling, scabs, and PIH.
06: · DIAGNOSIS FIRST
Lesions that are unusually different from other spots or have recently changed shape should be examined by a dermatologist first, as the laser can change the tissue and delay diagnosis. Although the findings below do not all indicate skin cancer, it is safe to determine whether they are benign through dermoscopy and, if necessary, biopsy before deciding on a treatment method.
07: · DEVICE ROLES
Diagnosis of lesions and target wavelength, pulse width, energy, and irradiation area are more important than the name of the equipment. The table below is a consultation role for the equipment currently available on the website, and actual application and settings will be determined after examination.
| equipment | method | When considering in consultation | Important things to note |
|---|---|---|---|
| mark view | Multiple light source skin photography | Comparison of the standard photo and distribution of color tone and redness by light source, progress under the same conditions | It is not a treatment and does not confirm the diagnosis through imaging alone. |
| piccolo premium | picosecond laser | Selected topical pigments, deep pigments, or lack of response to existing treatments. | Picoseconds are not automatically superior for all melasma·pigmented spots, wavelength and skin tone are important. |
| Helios 3 | Q switch Nd:YAG series | Toning or targeted treatment depending on pigment depth and goal | We do not look at skin reactions, do not fix the number of times or energy, and check for the possibility of PIH, reactive pigmentation, or hypopigmentation. |
| element | Long pulse 532 nm Nd:YAG series laser | In some cases, there is a brown tint with superficial blood vessels and redness, or red marks from acne remain. | Depending on your skin tone, recent tanning, and inflammation, settings are adjusted to account for the likelihood of PIH and purpura. |
| Select V | IPL series | When there are widespread superficial spots and redness together | Consider melasma, darker skin tone, and recent tanning at risk for exacerbation and PIH. |
| Ravian | 1927nm thulium series fractional | In some cases, both superficial skin tone and rough skin texture and photoaging occur together. | Redness, warmth, micro-scabbing, dryness and possible PIH may occur. |
| Selas Evo | Non-ablative fractional laser | Adjunctive treatment in cases where skin texture, pores, photoaging and color tone problems exist together | It has a different role from equipment that directly removes local pigment and confirms the recovery response. |
| main concern | Check first | Equipment direction available for consultation |
|---|---|---|
| Wide, cloudy melasma | Skin barrier, redness, previous toning reaction, photoprotection | Individual review of the possibility of assistance with Piccolo and Lavien, focusing on hypoallergenic toning such as Helios 3 |
| Bright freckles/solar lentigo | Benignity, depth, recent tanning | Choose between Piccolo Premium, Helios 3 or Cellec V according to the lesion. |
| Brown and red together | Proportion of vascular marks and melanin | Examine pigment and blood vessel targets separately using Element's long pulse 532 nm Nd:YAG series laser or Cellec V. |
| Brown skin marks after inflammation | Persistence of new inflammation, skin barrier, self-comedone extraction | Prioritize treatment of the cause of inflammation and topical medication, and select Q-Switch, Pico, and Fractional after stabilization. |
| Gray-blue dermal pigment | Melasma·ABNOM differentiation, pigment depth | Stepwise treatment review focusing on Q-switch Nd:YAG or picosecond laser |
| Concern about color tone, pores, and skin texture | Active inflammation and PIH risk | Additional review of fractional products such as La Vien and Sellas Evo |
This table is not a prescription for selecting equipment prior to your appointment. Even for the same person, the plan for each area may be different, such as managing melasma on the entire cheek with low stimulation and treating individual clear spots with separate targeted treatment.
08: · COURSE & MAINTENANCE
The recovery process varies depending on the equipment, wavelength, energy, treatment area and skin response. Rather than judging the results based solely on brightening or swelling immediately after the procedure, changes in color tone and side effects are evaluated together over several weeks under the same lighting and shooting conditions.
Redness, warmth, mild swelling, and stinging may occur. Avoid aggressive facial cleansing, saunas, vigorous exercise, scrubs, and exfoliation for as long as instructed.
Spots treated with topical targeted treatment may temporarily darken or develop microscabs. Maintains moisture and light protection without forcefully removing it.
Under the same shooting conditions, evaluate whether color tone becomes lighter, bounceback worsens, or PIH occurs.
Reduce ultraviolet rays, visible light, heat and friction and continue using prescribed topical medications and moisturizing. Rather than viewing relapse as a treatment failure, we adjust the maintenance plan.
DERMATOLOGIST'S PRINCIPLE
The key to pigmentation treatment is not the strongest equipment, but accurate diagnosis and setting a ‘stop and look standard’. If the color darkens or the skin becomes sensitive after treatment, the inflammation, barrier, diagnosis, and treatment interval are rechecked without repeating the same energy.
09: · FAQ
The type of lesion and skin reaction take precedence over the name of the equipment or the set number of times. The answers below are for general understanding and actual treatment may vary after examination.
Melasma often appears wide and blurred on both cheekbones, forehead, and upper lip, while freckles and solar lentigo are often individual spots with relatively clear boundaries. In reality, multiple pigments may exist together, so distribution, color, boundaries, surface, and change history must be confirmed through examination.
Melasma is a chronic and recurrent disease involving ultraviolet rays, visible light, heat, hormones, inflammation, and the dermal environment. Rather than a single strong treatment, it is common to selectively apply energy equipment based on skin reaction based on photoprotection and prescription treatment.
More times is not always better. If the treatment is too frequent or the accumulated energy is excessive, hypopigmentation, post-inflammatory pigmentation, and rebound worsening may occur, so the skin reaction and progress must be checked each time and the interval and settings must be adjusted.
Picosecond lasers also have different roles depending on wavelength, pulse width, energy, lesion depth, and skin tone. It is not automatically superior to all melasmas and pigmented spots and is selected when necessary after diagnosing the lesion.
IPL may be considered in some cases where there is a combination of diffuse superficial spots and flushing. However, in cases of melasma, dark skin tone, or recent tanning, the indications and settings are conservatively judged considering the possibility of post-inflammatory pigmentation or worsening.
Red or purple marks are more likely to be vascular changes, while brown or grey-brown marks are more likely to be melanin-driven. The two changes can occur together, allowing you to create a treatment plan that controls active acne first and then separates vascular and pigment targets.
After topical targeted treatment, the spots may temporarily darken or develop fine scabs, which usually fall off naturally within a few days to about 10 days. Do not force it off, but keep moisturized and block UV rays. The speed of recovery depends on the treatment method and skin reaction.
The possibility of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or rebound worsening should be checked. It is important not to repeat the same energy right away, but to re-evaluate the inflammation, skin barrier, diagnosis, medications taken, and procedure intervals to adjust the treatment direction.
During pregnancy and lactation, pigment changes may be affected by hormones, and there are limitations in the selection of medications and procedures that can be used. Be sure to inform the patient whether you are pregnant or breastfeeding, plan with a focus on photoprotection and safe management, and determine the necessary treatment individually.
Lesions with asymmetry, irregular borders, multiple colors, rapid growth, bleeding, or poorly healing wounds should be diagnosed before cosmetic laser treatment. A treatment method must be decided after confirming benignity through dermoscopy and, if necessary, biopsy.
CONTENT STANDARD & SAFETY
Treatment options may vary depending on your skin condition, medical history, medications you are taking, whether you are pregnant or breastfeeding, recent tanning, and recovery time. This information is intended to aid general understanding and is not a substitute for face-to-face examination and individual diagnosis. Equipment application, energy, interval and frequency are determined after examination.
Following a pigment laser, redness, swelling, microcrusting, PIH, rebound exacerbations, and hypopigmentation may occur. Please inform us of pregnancy/nursing, recent tanning, photosensitivity medications, active dermatitis/infection, keloids or past PIH, and reactions to existing pigment treatment during your consultation.
REFERENCES
Interpretation of evidence Note: Pigment laser research requires different skin tone, equipment, wavelength, energy, treatment interval, and evaluation method, so the results cannot be directly applied to a specific patient or specific equipment. References are not intended to guarantee effectiveness, but rather to support the principles of diagnosis, safety, and treatment.
SEOUL N DERMATOLOGY · OFFICIAL NAVER BLOG ARCHIVE
Complete topic-indexed archive of clinical columns, peer-reviewed paper reviews, and treatment principles written directly by Board-Certified Dermatologist Dr. Park Se-young on the official Naver Blog (blog.naver.com/csderma).
Cheongju Tattoo Removal: Understanding Reddish Brow Remnants (Ferric Oxide Reduction) After Laser Removal & 532nm Pico Care
Fact-checks the photochemical reduction of iron-oxide brow pigments into reddish tones and details staged 532nm and Picolo Premium laser clearance without scarring.
Cheongju Nevus of Ota: How Much Can a Child's Cheek Nevus of Ota Fade? 13-Session Pigment Laser Clinical Course
Documents the 13-session clinical progression of pediatric dermal Nevus of Ota treated with staged high-precision pigment lasers while preserving epidermal integrity.
Cheongju Vitiligo Case: Awakening 'Melanin Seeds' with SST Skin Grafting After 6 Months of Plateaued Excimer Phototherapy
Reports a stable vitiligo case refractory to 6 months of phototherapy where SST micro-punch skin grafting implanted viable melanocytes to restart perifollicular repigmentation.
Cheongju Dermatology '4 Pillars of Skin Quality' Part 2: Tone, Texture, Elasticity & Barrier Balance Strategy
Translates the vague wish for 'better skin' into 4 measurable clinical metrics: tone (pigment/vascular), texture (pores), elasticity (dermal density), and barrier hydration.
Cheongju Porcelain Glow Skin Science: Optical Light Reflection on the Stratum Corneum & Dermis
Explains skin radiance through optical physics: smooth stratum corneum alignment for specular reflection combined with dense, clear dermal collagen for subsurface scattering.
Cheongju Dermatology '4 Pillars of Skin Quality' Part 1: Turning Vague Skin Concerns into Objective Diagnostics
Shows how multi-spectral Mark-Vu imaging and dermatologist evaluation quantify pigment, vasculature, pores, and laxity to prioritize treatments without over-treating.
Rather than deciding on equipment in advance, it will be helpful for consultation if you tell us about changes in the lesion, previous treatment response, medications you are taking, and important schedules.